Jeans Are The Girl Best Friend

Gucci Man: the return of androginia

Foi a coleção mais excitante da Milan Fashion Week: a Gucci masculina devolve os homens como heróis do romantismo do século XIX, magérrimos, pálidos, femininos e relança o debate sobre as fronteiras do género.

Milan men’s fashion week was flowing smoothly. Nothing particularly new, really. Designers had played it relatively safe, largely bolstering the codes of their respective labels without adding much to the overall fashion debate, until, suddenly, the action ground to a halt at the Gucci show, the brand’s first following the exit of former creative director Frida Giannini.

As soon the first look hit the runaway, a model, so lanky and long-haired you could barely tell if he was a man or a woman, the pussy bow of his red silk blouse enforcing the impression of total, if natural, effeminacy, you immediately sensed you were about to witness something big: a blatant about-face for the brand, though certainly not a fashion epiphany. Fey depictions of masculinity have been part of the collective sub-consciousness, at least in this hyper-romantic and flamboyantly sensitive sense, since Mick Jagger and Brian Jones, back in the heyday of the Rolling Stones, began exchanging clothes with their girlfriends. Hordes of rock stars followed, until The New York Dolls turned gender-bending into farce.

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